Aerolase and Melasma: Can It Really Help Fade Stubborn Pigmentation?
Melasma is one of the most stubborn and frustrating skin conditions to treat. Unlike regular pigmentation, melasma is driven by deep-seated hormonal activity, inflammation, and even vascular components, making it prone to recurrence. Traditional treatments like hydroquinone, retinoids, and chemical peels can help, but they often fall short—especially when triggers like heat, hormones, and UV exposure continue to fuel the cycle.
Enter Aerolase, a next-generation laser technology that is making waves in the treatment of melasma. But how does it work? Is it the game-changer that so many melasma sufferers have been waiting for? And how do you get the best results while keeping flare-ups at bay? Let’s break it all down.
Why Is Melasma So Hard to Treat?
Unlike sunspots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma isn’t just about excess melanin—it’s deeply connected to hormones, vascular activity, and inflammation. Pregnancy, birth control, and hormonal fluctuations all play a role, as do UV exposure and heat, which trigger melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) to overproduce melanin. Even minor irritation from skincare products or treatments can worsen melasma, making it a delicate condition to manage.
This is why conventional laser treatments often make melasma worse rather than better. Many traditional lasers generate too much heat, which can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), causing melasma to darken or spread. Aerolase is different.
How Aerolase Treats Melasma Without Making It Worse
Aerolase is a 1064nm Nd:YAG laser that delivers energy in an ultra-short pulse duration. This means it effectively targets pigment, inflammation, and vascular components without generating excessive heat that can worsen melasma.
Here’s what makes Aerolase unique for melasma treatment:
Targets Pigment at Multiple Depths: Unlike some lasers that only treat surface pigmentation, Aerolase can penetrate deeper into the skin to break up stubborn melanin deposits. This is key for melasma, which often resides in both the epidermis (surface layer) and dermis (deeper layer).
Reduces Inflammation, a Key Driver of Melasma: Chronic inflammation plays a huge role in melasma development. Aerolase has been shown to reduce inflammatory markers in the skin, helping to calm the overactive melanocytes responsible for pigmentation
Addresses Vascular Components That Fuel Melasma: Emerging research shows that melasma isn’t just about melanin—it’s also influenced by abnormal blood vessel activity. The 1064nm wavelength of Aerolase specifically targets hemoglobin in blood vessels, helping to reduce this vascular influence and preventing recurring pigmentation.
Works Without Excessive Heat or Downtime: Traditional lasers often create microthermal damage, triggering an inflammatory response that can backfire on melasma-prone skin. Aerolase uses a gentler approach, meaning less risk of post-treatment darkening and fewer side effects.
What to Expect When Treating Melasma with Aerolase
Aerolase is not a one-and-done treatment. Since melasma is a chronic condition with internal triggers, a series of treatments is necessary to achieve optimal results. Most clients need between 3 to 6 sessions spaced about 4 weeks apart to see significant improvements.
The treatment itself is relatively comfortable compared to traditional lasers. Most people describe it as a warming sensation, with minimal discomfort. Because the heat energy is delivered in such short pulses, the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is dramatically lower than with older laser technologies.
There is no major downtime after Aerolase, but mild redness may occur for a few hours post-treatment. Some clients notice temporary darkening of melasma spots as the pigment lifts from deeper layers, but this fades over time as the skin naturally eliminates the fragmented pigment.
How to Maximize Results and Prevent Melasma from Returning
Because melasma is highly reactive, laser treatments alone won’t be enough to keep it away long-term. A multi-layered approach is key to getting the best results and maintaining them.
Supporting your skin with the right skincare and supplements will dramatically improve your outcome.
Zinc picolinate is essential for reducing inflammation and stabilizing melanocyte activity. Zinc also plays a role in skin healing post-laser, ensuring better long-term results.
Essential fatty acids (EFAs) help strengthen the skin barrier and prevent excess inflammation, which can worsen melasma. Omega-3s, in particular, help regulate pigment production and improve skin resilience.
Topical antioxidants like vitamin C and niacinamide help suppress pigment formation while reducing oxidative stress that can trigger flare-ups. These should be used daily under sunscreen.
Retinol is one of the best vitamin A derivatives for melasma-prone skin. Unlike stronger retinoids, it stimulates cell turnover without excessive irritation, making it ideal for use alongside laser treatments.
Hydroquinone or botanical alternatives like arbutin, kojic acid, and licorice root can help fade pigmentation between Aerolase sessions. These should be used in a cyclic manner to prevent skin resistance.
The Role of Sun Protection: Non-Negotiable
UV exposure is the number one external trigger for melasma, which means daily broad-spectrum SPF 50+ is mandatory—no exceptions. Even small amounts of UV exposure can reactivate melasma, undoing weeks of progress.
Physical sunscreens with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide provide the best protection, as they reflect UV rays rather than absorbing them like chemical sunscreens. If you’re exposed to blue light from screens, look for iron oxide in your sunscreen, as this helps shield against pigmentation-inducing visible light.
Sun exposure isn’t just about direct sunlight—heat is also a major trigger for melasma. If you live in a hot climate, avoid overheating the skin, wear a wide-brimmed hat outdoors, and use cool compresses when needed to prevent flare-ups.
Also, important to know is that the retina, when being exposed to sunlight, will trigger an MSH cascade (melanin stimulating hormone) which sets in motion a he formation of new pigment.
So sunglasses are a must!
Is Aerolase the Right Melasma Treatment for You?
Aerolase is an excellent option for those who have stubborn melasma that hasn’t responded well to traditional treatments. It’s especially beneficial for individuals who are sensitive to heat-based lasers or who experience recurring pigmentation despite using topicals.
However, melasma requires ongoing management. Even with Aerolase, maintenance treatments may be needed to keep pigmentation at bay. A customized plan that includes laser, skincare, supplements, and lifestyle modifications will always yield the best results.
If you’re struggling with melasma and want to explore whether Aerolase is right for you, book a consultation at HÜD Northcote so we can design a tailored approach to help you achieve clear, even skin.
View Details